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Colombo is never going to win any awards for the greatest city on earth. However, people don’t stay here long enough to truly appreciate it. It does have a charm to it if you look hard enough. Whether you find it in the quiet streets or the great community spirit amongst the people, Colombo certainly offers a different experience. It is unlike any other city you may have seen before. Don’t get too bogged down by the poverty here or too comfortable with the quiet surroundings. Colombo switches between the two rapidly and frequently. Hopefully, this Colombo Travel Guide will help you see both sides of this remarkable city. I hope you will be able to experience the good and bad of the city. Perhaps see the community come together and hopefully to eat well along the way.
Currency Converter – 200Rs = €1/£0.90/$1.20
Getting In
Most visitors arrive into Colombo by air. Unfortunately, Colombo airport is not actually in Colombo. It is in Katunayake, 32km north of Colombo. The airport is actually closer to Negombo. The most popular way to get to the city from the airport is by taxi. This is also the quickest, easiest and most expensive. Negotiating with a driver isn’t my idea of fun after a flight, especially at night. Typically you will pay anywhere around 1500Rs. The alternative to that is the local bus, which I used and think is the best mode of transport. The bus leaves from across the road of the arrivals hall. It is numbered 187 and has Colombo Fort written on the front. The drivers will quickly see you and ask if you are going to Colombo. This costs 200Rs per person and takes just over an hour. Be warned, they drive like absolute maniacs!
Where To Stay
Colombo is a huge city. Deciding where to stay can be tricky. Most hotels and hostels are close to the water. This area is the best choice, in my opinion. Staying near the Fort area will mean you are close to the train station and either within walking distance or a short Tuk-Tuk ride to most of the main attractions. I stayed at Colombo Downtown Monkey Hostel. It was a simple dorm room with free breakfast. This was the perfect location for seeing what I wanted to see. For 1000Rs per night, it was great value for money. For a quieter but more built-up area, consider Colombo 7. Here is where you will find museums and parks. This area was where I felt the city was sleeping. There was no traffic and certainly no crowds shoving past you on the street. As nice as it is here, I felt it was a little far out from the action.
When To Go
For such a small island, the weather in Sri Lanka is quite complicated. They experience two different monsoon seasons. Different parts of the country are affected by one of the two at different times. Colombo experiences its worst weather between the months of April – September. The best time to visit the city is from December – March. In the months of October and November, rainfall and thunderstorms can happen here as well as anywhere in the county, something I quickly found out about.
What To Do
Galle Face Green
This was my favourite place in the city. Every evening as the sun went down, people would flock here to enjoy the public space. Whether to eat, take a stroll along the promenade or fly kites, (a surprisingly popular activity here), it is great to see a community come together like this and have a good time. Plenty of street carts here sell snacks or you can visit one of the Nana’s for a more substantial meal. Take your time here and enjoy it, it is a place that will certainly make you feel more affectionate towards Colombo.
Colombo Fort
This area, near the train station, is another side of the city. It felt like an older Colombo. Things were more hectic here and, in places, more run down. Visit the Pettah Market here to get a glimpse into daily life. Check out some of the amazing buildings, such as the Red Mosque, all whilst battling the crowds. It might not be the prettiest place or the most charming, however, it is a must see in Colombo. Avoid this area and you will leave Colombo with less of an insight into life here.
Vihara Mahadevi Park
A very relaxing area in what can be a hectic, scorching hot city. Colombo’s largest park is a must see. Grab a bench in the shade here and admire the green trees or people watch. Maybe bring a picnic if you plan on staying for a few hours. This place is full of groups of friends, couples and families at the weekend enjoying themselves. It is a really nice park with plenty of different areas to explore. There is also plenty of wildlife here to see. Go on a weekday and it will be considerably quieter, but even on weekends, you will still find some peace here.
Old Dutch Hospital
This is not what you would imagine it to be. I expected an old derelict building of sorts. Instead, it is a small entrance that opens into a courtyard of peacefulness and solitude. There are a few cafés and restaurants here that offer outside seating and a couple of shops. Prices here are at a premium though so it’s not great if you are on a budget. Regardless of spending money, take a walk in here and escape the city for a few moments at least.
Gangaramaya Temple
One of the oldest and most important Buddhist temples in Colombo. The building is architecturally stunning and it is a very peaceful place to walk around. Due to its location, it is a good idea to tie a visit here in with a visit to Vihara Mahadevi Park. It can get quite busy at times so maybe consider going later in the day when it is quieter.
What To Eat
Kottu @ Chef Nana’s
Kotthu is a delicious, favourite Sri Lankan fast food. In the evening, down by the waterfront, many small restaurants open selling good, cheap food. This is where I found Chef and tried Kotthu. It was delicious. Portion sizes were huge and more than enough. I got the Chicken Kotthu which cost 300Rs. If I returned I would have just got the egg version for 200Rs, the Chicken didn’t add too much to the dish. Kotthu is a must try when you are in Sri Lanka and this version that I tried was a great tasting one.
Samosa’s @ Everywhere
One of the many delicious snacks readily available all over the city. Pick up some of these as you go about your day for a quick and tasty snack. Usually sold in the fronts of sweet shops and local hotels (Both of which sell food front of house) they will only set you back 35Rs per piece. Pick a place that looks busy for fresher samosas, and try stick to the smaller ones. These have more crunch and are better filled.
Masala Dosa @ Indo Ceylon
I was eager to try Masala Dosa in Colombo, and I am so glad I chose Indo Ceylon. This small, very local eatery serves the most delicious plate of food you can imagine. The waiter helped me with my order, I presume after he saw the puzzled look on my face. He then proceeded to bring me a Medu Vada, some Dhal and this amazing dosa stuffed with a huge portion of potato masala which was a perfect combination of spicy and tasty. All this cost just 275Rs and I left barely able to move. No picture of this, unfortunately, sometimes you just have to dig in!
Isso Wade @ Galle Face Green
These are sold in every street cart that sets up shop on Galle Face Green. They don’t look too appetising but don’t judge a book by its cover. They are made from lentils and spices that are shaped into a pattie and topped with prawns. The vendor will then add some fresh vegetables and a sauce before serving. They are very fishy but delicious. They are sold 3 in a portion for 100Rs.
Medu Vada @ Everywhere
Another snack sold from not only Galle Face Green but everywhere you look in this city. Typically eaten as a breakfast or a snack, they are made from a black lentil batter and shaped like a doughnut before being fried. They are eaten with either fresh vegetables or as part of a bigger meal like Masala Dosa. On Galle Face Green these will set you back 60Rs but can be found for cheaper in places like Colombo Fort.
Cookies @ The Brick Lane Cookie Company
I love a sweet treat. Every city I travel to, I manage to find at least one place that I frequently visit whilst I am there. In Colombo, it was a small cookie stand inside the food court at Crescat Boulevard Shopping Centre. A cookie here will cost you 180Rs. They are soft, chewy and addicting. If you happen to be in the area, treat yourself.
What To Avoid
Scams
Like most big cities, scams are everywhere. They are easy to spot. You will be walking around the Galle Face Green Area or the streets surrounding the Old Dutch Hospital when you are approached by a man. He will ask you where you are from and act friendly. Then he will slip into the conversation that today is a special day with some Buddhist ceremony happening just around the corner. He will use the prospect of seeing elephants as a lure. Act polite and keep walking, taking a turn off if possible. If you walk the same streets more than once, you will probably see the same guy loitering around looking for his next target. There is no ceremony and there are no elephants. We were offered the same story two days in a row by two touts. Don’t fall for their friendliness!
Another common scam is at Vihara Mahadevi Park. If you are sitting in one place for long enough here, you will be approached by someone claiming to be the chief gardener. He will point out a few animals and act polite, asking you questions. Then he will talk about something else in the park, like a Cinnamon Tree. He will offer to show it to you. I don’t know how this ends. I had my suspicions that he would charge you for a tour of the park when there or maybe he was a Tuk-Tuk driver who would insist you take a drive to see this “wonderful tree” (There were a large number of unmanned Tuk-Tuks outside the park). Don’t go with him, just politely decline his offer and he will then head off to try to find another victim.
Tuk Tuks
I don’t like Tuk-Tuks in any country. The majority of them are scam artists and I try to avoid them at all times. They are not worth the hassle. Tuk-Tuks here will constantly pull up next to you as you walk and try to sell you some sort of tour or just a taxi somewhere. Avoid taking them unless really necessary. A common scam here is they will quote you a price of 150Rs for a short journey. When you confirm that price with them they will say “Yes, yes, 1050Rs”, despite saying 150Rs before you get in. Luckily, Colombo is a nice city to walk around so I never felt the need to take them.
Dressing Provocatively
This applies more to women than it does to men. Sri Lanka is quite a reserved country. Women here, whether for religious or for cultural reasons, tend to keep themselves well covered. Don’t go walking around in skimpy clothing if you don’t want to attract unwanted attention. Women should cover their shoulders and wear clothing below the knee. Guys can typically get away with shorts and a t-shirt. Men here will usually wear either a t-shirt or a shirt and long pants. Skip the vests and tank tops, show some sort of respect and whatever you do, don’t walk around with your top off!!!
It took me a couple of days to truly see what Colombo had to offer. I don’t think it is love at first sight for anyone that visits here. Most people leave quickly after arriving with nothing but a negative view of the city. Give it time though, don’t run away from Colombo. Take it all in, enjoy it. The sense of community here will put a smile on your face. It will make you thankful you had the chance to visit here. Once you spend a few days there, your opinion is sure to differ to that of your first day here. You may not want to hurry back but it will not have been wasted time here. Colombo is unique, unique in more ways than one. Get to know this city, form an opinion based on experiences rather than a quick look through. Maybe then you will leave Colombo with a smile on your face.
To read more about my time in Sri Lanka click here. Alternatively, you can read my Sri Lanka Travel Guide by clicking here.
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This is a great guide! A lot of people will skip the less popular cities and only visit the touristy spots which means they miss out on a lot of the culture and lives of people living there. Thanks for sharing!
Thank you!! They do unfortunately. Most people were staying for just one night. I feel the city deserves a lot more than that.
A very informative guide. I love how you broke it down into categories. The food looks delicious. Knowing what to avoid while traveling is just as important as knowing where to go.
Excellent insight of Colombo. I enjoyed reading about the city.
Super informative guide and a really easy read – I’ve subscribed!
Nice introduction to Colombo!