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Vilnius, Lithuania’s capital is a fascinating and complex city. One that is grasping onto the past and its culture whilst moving rapidly into the future, becoming in parts, a modern, cosmopolitan city. In the old town, the architecture and streets are a delight to see. Churches and monuments share the cobbled streets with many new and much more hip bars and restaurants. Across the river, skyscrapers are being built, bringing in major tech companies. This mix of old and new, as well as Vilnius trying to find what direction it is heading in, makes the city a very interesting place to visit. This Vilnius Travel Guide will hopefully help convince you to visit what is a very underrated city, one that offers much more than people realize.
Getting Into Vilnius
By Air
Vilnius has one airport, located 5.9 km south of the city. The best way to get from the airport is the public bus. Bus lines 1 and 2 will take you into the city but no further than the Central Station. Bus line 88 will bring you a little closer depending on exactly where your accommodation is. The express bus, 3G will do the same as number 88, just a little faster. Being a small city, you will never have to walk too far if you plan your bus journey correctly. To plan your bus route and work out which bus stop is best for you, click here.
By Bus
Arriving from either Latvia in the north or Poland from the south then it is likely you will be arriving by bus. This is the most convenient, reliable, and comfortable way to travel in this region. Two of the best companies to use are Flixbus and LuxExpress, both have daily routes to and from Vilnius. Vilnius Bus Station is where both of these companies will drop you off. This bus station is just 1km from the centre of the Old Town so it is likely you will be able to walk to your accommodation from here.
By Train
Arriving by train is unlikely unless you are arriving from the nearby, Kaunas. However, if you are then the Vilnius train station is located just beside the aforementioned bus station. It is a short walk to the Old Town from there. The main highlight of this train station is the very strange and completely random giant statue of Tony Soprano which is just off one of the tracks. The reasoning behind this is an absolute mystery to me but it is quite funny to see if you are a fan of the show.
Where To Stay In Vilnius
The Old Town in Vilnius is the best place to look for your accommodation. Although this area doesn’t stand out in the same way it does in the other Balkan capitals, Tallinn and Riga, its central location makes it the perfect base to explore all of the sites on offer. Vilnius Town Hall is the landmark to look for when booking accommodation. Stay close to here and you will keep walking to a minimum and never like anything is too far away.
When To Go To Vilnius
This section would be more aptly named ‘ When Not To Go To Vilnius’. Vilnius has quite fair weather for large parts of the year with a nicer than average summer. However, the winters can get bitterly cold. From late November to late February, expect minus temperatures and snowy conditions. For a comfortable trip and one not dictated by the weather, it is best to avoid these months. I visited during Autumn and it felt perfect. Nice, mild temperatures with the fallen leaves only add to the beauty of the city.
What To Do In Vilnius
The Hill of the Three Crosses
The climb to the three crosses and the subsequent view of the city from there was a personal favourite of mine. Wooden crosses have been there since the early 17th century, and they are an integral part of the city’s skyline. The climb is a little more strenuous than it first appears but to be rewarded with such an amazing view of the city makes it worth it. The trail to the top starts in the Park of Hills. Enter the park from behind the Folk Cultural Centre, turn right, and walk along the river. Once you see steps to your left, that is the start of the climb to the top. It will take about 15 mins to reach the summit.
Vilnius Cathedral and Gediminas Tower
Vilnius Cathedral and the surrounding area are probably the cities biggest landmarks at ground level. Officially called The Cathedral Basilica of St Stanislaus and St Ladislaus of Vilnius, it is the largest Roman Catholic Cathedral in Vilnius. When walking around the area you will see the imposing Bell Tower but also be on the lookout for the miracle tile. Many believe that the tile created by the artist Gitenis Umbrasas can fulfill a wish if you spin on its axis. Realistically, this is just a myth but the tile does represent a momentous day in Lithuanian history.
The loudest and clearest display of dissent was sent to the then in charge Soviet Union from this very spot. On August 23, 1989, approximately two million people joined hands across Lithuania, Latvia, and Estonia to make the Baltic Way, the longest unbroken human chain in history, spanning over 370 miles. The chain began in Tallinn, Estonia and trailed down through Riga, Latvia, and finally ended in Vilnius, Lithuania, right at the Miracle Tile.
Overlooking the Cathedral is the Gediminas Tower, the remaining part of the Upper Castle. Like the Three Crosses, climbing Gediminas Hill to the tower will give you spectacular, panoramic views of the city.
Bernardinai Garden
No place is better for a beautiful, relaxing walk than the Bernardinai Garden. This green area is spread over a massive 9 hectares along the banks of the Vilnia river. The musical fountain in the centre of the park plays songs a few times every hour to those taking a stroll or just chilling nearby. If you are lucky to have good weather during your visit, visiting this park and enjoying the serenity it offers is a must.
Museum of Occupations and Freedom Fights
Every capital city in the Balkans has a museum of a similar kind and they are always a fantastic way to learn about the dark history of the city from a time not so long ago. In Vilnius, this museum is located in a former KGB headquarters. Before them, the Gestapo, Polish occupiers, and Tsarist judiciary all occupied the building. Between 1944 and the 1960s, more than 1000 Lithuanian prisoners were killed there. It certainly has a haunting, eerie feel to it. The most important part of the museum is the former KGB prison which looks the same way it was left by the Soviets. Prison cells, solitary confinement cells, exercise courtyard are all on display.
Gate of Dawn
Likely to be the first sight you see, the Gate of Dawn is a city gate in Vilnius and one of its most important historical and cultural monuments in all of Lithuania. It is the only remaining gate from the city’s original defensive walls. If you are walking from the bus or train station into the Old Town then passing through the Gate of Dawn is a must. It is only then that you really feel like you are entering the city of Vilnius. A beautiful and significant starting point for your visit.
Uzupis
Cross over the Vilnia River and you will find yourself in Uzupis or as it is self-proclaimed ‘Republic of Uzupis’. Dotted with street murals and installations, this bohemian neighborhood feels a world away from the Old Town. This area reminded me of a much milder version of Freetown Christiania in Copenhagen. The same principles, just without the trash and open drug dealing. I was surprised I actually enjoyed being in Uzupis, it felt artsy, a little hipster, and had a general, good vibe about the place. There was plenty of local boutiques and small cafes to enjoy. When you visit this neighborhood, be sure to check out the tongue-in-cheek constitution mounted on wall plaques in every language you can think of.
Trakai Island Castle
A castle located in Trakai, on an island in Lake Galvė. Built in the 14th century, this red-bricked fortress is a sight to behold. It takes just over 30 mins to reach Trakai from the capital where you can then cross the large wooden bridge and explore the castle grounds as well as the exhibitions on show. Come during the winter and the surrounding lake might have become a natural skating rink as it freezes over. A great way to see the castle is from above. Companies offer hot air balloon rides over the lake and the castle. Prices vary depending on the company you choose but it will be a minimum of €100.
Take a Trip from Vilnius to Kaunas
Kaunas is Lithuania’s second city. It is said that visiting Kaunas will give you more of an insight into traditional Lithuanian culture. The city which will be the European Capital of Culture in 2022 is definitely worth a visit, whether on a day trip or longer. It takes just over an hour from Vilnius and can be reached by both bus and train. Once there, you must visit Kaunas Castle. This medieval castle will be a highlight of the city. The Pažaislis monastery and church are also worth seeing. If you are interested, there is also an unconventional and quite spooky Devils Museum, exhibiting a collection of over 3,000 paintings, sculptures, and other works of art of the devil. A trip to Kaunas is worth trying to fit into your schedule.
Where To Eat in Vilnius
Snekutis
It doesn’t get more old-school than Snekutis. This bar is almost always full of locals and tourists and it is the best place to try a whole host of traditional Lithuanian cuisine. The food here can be quite heavy, with a lot of fried stuff, carbs, and big portions but it is at the same time, comforting and homey. What makes Snekutis even more of a must-try is the selection of beer they have. It is one of the best in the city. Visting here for a meal offers as much of an insight into the culture as anywhere.
Chačapuri
This Georgian restaurant serves up an amazing selection of salads. soups and their specialty, Chacapuri. Freshly baked bread filled with cheese and any of the other ingredients on offer. This place was one of the stand-out meals from my time in Vilnius. This food is typically eaten at lunchtime so I would advise getting in just before the rush if you want to guarantee a table.
Beigelistai
Bagels are one of my favourite ways to start off a day. Once I saw there was a cafe with a high reputation that specializes in them so close to the Old Town and my accommodation, I knew it would be a place to visit. Their menu is simple, selling just bagels, salads, hot and cold drinks. With the use of fresh ingredients and friendly prices, I found Beigelistai to be the perfect way to fuel up before heading out to explore Vilnius.
Būsi trečias
This traditional Lithuanian tavern doesn’t look like much from the outside but once you pass through the heavy wooden doors you find yourself in one of the best places to eat and drink in the city. This eatery has a great selection of beers on tap, most brewed in-house. They label themselves as the oldest mini brewery in Vilnius. The menu consists of local specialties, the food is of good value and more importantly of excellent quality.
Chaika
Looking for a place to grab a coffee and some cake, then look no further than Chaika. They have a large selection of homemade sweet treats, all of which were surprisingly vegan. The coffee they sell is also one of the best in the city. They have two locations both within walking distance of the main square. Chaika is certainly my recommendation for a cafe in Vilnius.
Jurgis ir Drakonas
Pizza is one of my favourite foods and it feels like it is my go-to meal whenever I am undecided on what to eat. Searching for a restaurant after just arriving late into Vilnius and Jurgis ir Drakonas was a restaurant that tempted me more than any other. They have three restaurants in Vilnius, two of which are in the old town. The wait just to be seated was an excellent sign that I had made the right choice. Once my wood-fired pizza arrived, I immediately knew it was going to be good. Made with high-quality ingredients and with an excellent, homemade sauce, I doubt there is a better pizza in the city. Whilst in no way authentic, this pizza makes for a tasty meal when in Vilnius.
It seemed like whenever I mentioned Vilnius to people, the reaction was always the same, indifferent. I felt like nobody had anything good to say. Some even said that if I skipped the city completely I would not be missing out on anything. It is fair to say, I didn’t have high expectations arriving. This was possibly the reason I enjoyed it so much. It took me by surprise. Vilnius has an Old Town that boasts all the beauty you would expect from a UNESCO World Heritage Site as well as crazy nightlife and some excellent food to go with it. Whilst it might not be a city high on your bucket list, Vilnius is a very worthwhile destination.
Loved this review I’m hoping you’ll have your krakow one down before we travel in March 😀
Loved this review