The Roaming Irishman

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Sri Lanka Travel Guide

Sri Lanka Travel Guide

Sri Lanka – A Land Like No Other

Few countries have the ability to blow you away as Sri Lanka does. Every day there can be an adventure, different sights, different tastes, different smells. It is a country that once you visit you will never forget. There is an abundance of wildlife, from monkeys in the cities, to elephants in the nature parks. It is a nation of people so friendly and welcoming, unlike any country I have seen before. Moving from one town or city to another, the world around you can change drastically. Simply moving 30kms down the road can feel like you have travelled to the other side of the country. Sri Lanka was the best country for budget travelling that I have ever visited. Even I was surprised at how little I needed to spend here, with one month setting me back just 50,000Rs. This Sri Lanka Travel Guide is designed to help you decide where to go, what to eat and how to save money, hopefully inspiring some wanderlust in you at the same time.

Currency Converter – 200Rs = €1/£0.90/$1.20

Weather

For quite a small country, Sri Lanka has some crazy weather. The country has two different monsoon seasons. These affect different parts of the island at different times of the year. For visiting the west and southwest coasts along with the central highlands, plan your visit anytime from November to March. For the northern region and the east coast of the country, April until September is the best time to go. These are the dry seasons for each region and also the most popular amongst travellers. Most of your time in the country is likely to be either central or to the west/south coast. This makes escaping the western winter to visit Sri Lanka ideal.

Visa Policy

Any tourist travelling to Sri Lanka will need to obtain an ETA, Electronic Travel Authorisation. This is easily done at www.eta.gov.lk, it will cost you $20. For more information on Sri Lanka’s visa policy, I recommend clicking this link.

Things To See and Do in Sri Lanka

Colombo – I’m a firm believer that to truly see any country, you need to spend time in its capital city. Colombo is no different. Whilst you may leave here feeling indifferent about the city, you will come away with a much better understanding of what life is like in the country. Honestly, I liked Colombo, it grew on me. For the most part, it had a nice atmosphere, at least in certain areas of the city. It was also much less densely populated than I thought it would be, making it a nice city to walk around. Your days won’t be overly busy trying to visit everything, because frankly there is not much to see. A few days in Colombo can be the perfect way to start any Sri Lankan trip.

Galle Face Green
Galle Face Green in Colombo

 

Ella – Possibly my favourite town in Sri Lanka, Ella, situated high up amongst the hills, has a special feel to it. It is quite touristy but it also has a certain charm to it. The climate here is cooler than the coast,  there is a lot of good food and the views of the surrounding landscapes are incredible, even if you have to work for them. Any trip to Sri Lanka should include at least a few days here.

The view from Little Adam’s Peak
One of the many amazing views in Ella

 

Ella To Kandy Train Ride – Very few train rides is an attraction like the Ella to Kandy journey. Dubbed by some as “the most beautiful train journey in the world”, this train ride offers some of the best views that you can find, countrywide. It takes roughly 6 hours and you will find yourself staring out the window the entire time. Most people will visit both towns during their time in Sri Lanka, so taking the train in between both is a must.

Tip – Don’t pay for anything more than 3rd class reserved. This gets you a perfectly acceptable seat for 400Rs, as of Oct 2018.

Ella to Kandy train journey
An incredible view from an incredible train journey

 

Kandy – If I am being honest I was not a huge fan of Kandy. It wasn’t very pedestrian friendly and the constant traffic on uphill roads led to there being an insane amount of exhaust emissions in the air. That being said, you could very well end up there for a couple of days during your time in Sri Lanka. There is a bit to do there, the Temple of The Tooth and the Botanical Gardens are both in the city. I would not recommend spending too long there but by all means, go and find out for yourself, you may end up loving Kandy.

Galle – Even though it is a much smaller city than Colombo, Galle still draws in a crowd. Most of the tourists are here for one reason only, Galle Fort. It is a quiet haven amongst a busy city. Very touristy but also very nice to take a relaxing walk through. Galle doesn’t need a lot of time, but allocating a day or two here is recommended.

Galle Fort
Galle Fort

 

Hikkaduwa – A small beachside town that is perfect for relaxing in. Not a lot happens in Hikkaduwa but this is not a bad thing. If you want to switch off for a few days, this is the place to go. Most of the activity here centres around one road that runs along the coast, so you are never too far away from some sand and sea.

Hikkaduwa Turtle Sanctuary
Be sure to visit a turtle sanctuary in Hikkaduwa

 

Mirissa – Another beachside town, one that is a bit busier though. Mirissa has a nicer beach than Hikkaduwa and also more restaurants and bars along it. There is a bit more happening inside the town too, so it really depends on what you are looking for when deciding which beach town to visit. I would recommend spending a few days in each. Their close proximity to each other is very convenient. Mirissa and Hikkaduwa are a favourite amongst Russian holidaymakers.

Mirissa Beach
Picturesque Mirissa Beach

 

Sigiriya – People flock to Sigiriya for one main reason, Lion’s Rock. Apart from that the town doesn’t offer much and doesn’t need too much of your time. Due to its popularity, prices for Lion’s Rock are extortionate. As of Oct 2018, the entrance fee is 5000Rs. Fortunately, there is an alternative. Just a few hundred meters away is Pidurangala Rock. They are more or less the same height and the view is equally as impressive from both. Pidurangala only costs 500Rs making it much better for your budget. A night or two is plenty of time to climb either or both of these rocks, and see everything Sigiriya offers.

The view from Pidurangala Rock
Lion’s Rock from the more budget-friendly Pidurangala Rock

 

Jaffna – Sri Lanka’s most northern city is a great place to get off the regular tourist trail and see a different side of the country. A visit here may require some slightly longer travelling but staying away may lead to regret. Jaffna was heavily affected by the civil war but today, it is a city on the up and increased levels of tourism will only help that. I didn’t make my way to Jaffna due to time constraints but I left Sri Lanka wishing that I had.

Visit One of the Many National Parks – Sri Lanka is famous for its national parks. The two most popular being Yala and Minneriya. A safari here will set you back a decent chunk of money, but for some, the opportunity to see wild elephants and leopards, alongside an abundance of other wildlife is too good to pass up.

Yala National Park
Yala National Park (Photo courtesy of www.newsfirst.lk)

 

Nuwara Eliya – Nuwara Eliya is a small city nestled amongst the hills of central Sri Lanka. It is a great place to base any visit to a nearby tea plantation. The main attraction here is Adam’s Peak. Be warned though, climbing to the top will take between 2-4 hours and you need to be physically able to take on the 5,500 steps.

What To Eat in Sri Lanka

With so much delicious food to eat in Sri Lanka, there was never going to be enough room on this post. To check out my list of 20 Must Eats in Sri Lanka, click here.

Helpful Phrases

Hello – Ayubowan

Thank you very much – Bohoma Istuti

I don’t understand – Mata Terinneh Neh

Do You Speak English – Oyate Ingrisi Katha Karanna Puluwanda

How Much – Meeka Kiyadha

Please – Karunakara

Okay – Hari Hondai

Food – Kaama

Typical Costs in Sri Lanka

Accommodation – Sri Lanka is one of the few countries that offers private rooms for the same price, if not less per person, like dorm rooms. Dorm rooms average at 800Rs per night but you can expect to get a double or twin room for twice that price.

Transportation – Presuming you are taking public transport (you should be) then your transportation costs are going to be next to nothing. Buses and trains are very cheap, with most journeys costing less than 400Rs. An example of this was the bus journey from Mirissa to Ella which cost me 300Rs and took four and a half hours. Alternatively, you can take a private taxi for 12,500Rs.

Food – Eating local and eating vegetarian is the way to keep your budget down in Sri Lanka. Most meals will cost you anything less than 500Rs. To eat meat, you can expect to pay double this price. For a more Western meal, the cost only climbs.

Masala Dosa
This Masala Dosa cost me just 200Rs

 

Excursions – Prices for attractions range from extremely high to free. For certain things like the safaris in Yala or Minneriya, you can expect to pay 9,000Rs. The Lion’s Rock in Sigiriya will set you back 5,000Rs. Sri Lanka does, however, have some amazing things for free on offer. Climbs like Ella Rock or Adam’s Peak are free to enter and can be a highlight of your time in Sri Lanka.

How To Save Money in Sri Lanka

Avoid Personal Taxis – Unlike in any country I have ever visited, tourists in Sri Lanka tend to use private taxis for long distance journeys. I never really understood the reason why especially after seeing the prices that are charged. Sri Lanka’s public transport runs better than it looks from the outside. It might not be the most comfortable journey, but it will get you around the country for very little money.

Airport Transfers – More than likely you will arrive in Sri Lanka by air into Colombo Airport. However, the airport is actually in Katunayake, 32km outside of Colombo. The majority of people therefore arrive and take an airport transfer to their intended destination. The airport is served by public transport, make use of it. Even though you might have to change buses if you are going further afield, this bit of effort will save you a considerable amount of money.

Do Your Research – I mean this in relation to tourist attractions. Certain things are designed to get your money. I’m thinking especially of Whale Watching and the Stilt Fisherman. Sure, the pictures look like something that would be amazing to see but the reality is very different. The “fisherman” in certain places won’t even get onto the stilts until you pay them. The Whale Watching is as unethical as it is unreliable. Think ten boats packed with tourists, chasing this one whale just to get a tiny glimpse of it. Save your money and your time and avoid these things.

Stilt Fishermen
The stilt fishermen is a known tour trap

 

Eat Vegetarian – Despite being quite an avid meat eater, Sri Lanka, like India, is a country I could happily eat vegetarian for a long time and not even notice. The food here is so good and has such a wide variety that you won’t even realise you have gone weeks without a bit of meat. Meat options are widely available but at a much higher price. Most locals don’t eat meat regularly. Avoid it for a change and enjoy the delicious, local fresh food that is readily available.

Always Pay the Market Price – Every packaged item in a Sri Lankan grocery store or supermarket will have the retail price stamped on it. Never pay more than this. In certain shops, maybe in touristy areas or just a shopkeeper trying their luck, the price might be raised. Don’t pay it under any circumstance, move on to the next shop and purchase it there. An example below is a bottle of water. On the bottom line it says MRP then 80.00, this is the price. Always check this out before purchasing and pay no more.

Bottle of Water with a marked price.
Bottle of Water with a marked price.

 

Avoid Bars – Sri Lanka, amongst locals, doesn’t have a big drinking culture. Most of the bars you will see are aimed at tourists. Prices in bars can range from ok to ridiculously high. You then have to add on the regular service tax of 10% at the end, a nasty shock after quite a few beers. For the best prices, buy beer in the Wine Shops you come across in most towns. They’re hard to miss as they are usually enclosed in metal bars. This is the cheapest alcohol that you will find.

Sri Lanka is a budget traveller’s dream come true. Very few countries offer as much as Sri Lanka does for such a low cost. It is a special place, a land like no other. The people are incredibly warm and friendly, the food is out of this world and the natural beauty will blow you away. A trip here needs to be on every traveller’s bucket list. It was a country I was eager to visit for quite some time and it went above and beyond any expectations that I had. One day I will return to Sri Lanka, dive even deeper into the country and the culture. For now, though, this is my Sri Lanka Travel Guide. I hope it helps to inspire you to visit what is one of the worlds most unique and special destinations.

For my full collection of Sri Lanka blogs, click here.

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