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Approaching Luang Prabang, the empty roads continuously twist and turn through the rolling hills and mountains. Any town that you pass through is small, with very few houses. Any houses you do see are made mostly from wood and metal sheets. Laos, much like I expected from reputation, is very quiet and very much still in development. Arriving in Luang Prabang, you are greeted with near silence. The roads lack any steady traffic and the people are few and far between. However, Luang Prabang is a charming city, one where you feel a peacefulness in. What did surprise me was that food, drink, and pretty much everything else cost more there than anywhere else in South East Asia, with the exception of Singapore. It can be challenging to get the most out of your time there without breaking the budget, so here is my guide to a budget-friendly 48 Hours in Luang Prabang.
Conversion Rate – 10,000Kip = €1/£0.90/$1.19
Accommodation
Walking through Luang Prabang, I quickly realized that most buildings in the city center seem to be guesthouses. They are everywhere. Of course, this is a good thing. It keeps prices competitive and makes it a lot easier to find good quality accommodation. I stayed at ThaViSouk Family Home, which was in an excellent location with a very friendly owner. You have the choice of a dorm or private room at this hostel. If you are not alone I suggest opting for a private room which costs 120,000 per night. Compare this to the dorm price which is 43,000 a night and for two people it works out much better value. As long as you compare prices and make sure the location is good, you won’t have any issues finding good accommodation.
Day 1
Breakfast
Guesthouses, more often than not, follow trends. As a result, if a few places offer something like a free breakfast, the rest will usually follow suit. This is the case for Luang Prabang. Don’t stay somewhere that does not offer breakfast. The city is quiet in the morning and you don’t want to be walking the streets and, more often than not, overpaying for a meal you can get for free.
Morning
No trip to Luang Prabang is complete without visiting Kuang Si Waterfall. This is by far the most popular attraction in the city and possibly the country. It is truly spectacular. The main waterfall is surrounded by many smaller falls and pools that visitors can swim in. You also have the option to climb the steps on either side of the waterfall and catch the amazing view of the surrounding area from the top. Getting to the waterfall is very easy and most hostels and guesthouses will offer the chance to go by minivan. The waterfall is 40 minutes away from Luang Prabang, so this is a good way to travel on bumpy roads. A shared minivan booked through your accommodation should only cost you 40,000 Kip. There is the added bonus of a bear sanctuary at the entrance to the waterfall, making the uncomfortable minivan journey well worth it!
Lunch
Everywhere you look in Luang Prabang you will see stalls selling baguettes. they are similar in style to the Vietnamese Banh Mi. But have more of a selection of toppings. These baguettes are a very convenient lunch. Opposite the Tourist Information Center, you will find the largest selection of stalls that offer these cheap eats. Most menus here are the same. Chicken, bacon, egg, and avocado are all common options, so find one that catches your attention and choose your fillings. The average price for a baguette is 15,000 Kip. However, prices can be slightly higher if you add more fillings.
Afternoon
In the afternoon, as the weather gets slightly cooler, it is a good time to visit a couple of the excellent temples that Luang Prabang offers. The first to visit is Wat Xieng Thong, which is by far the largest temple in the city. It can be an excellent way to spend a couple of hours getting an insight into Buddhism in Laos. After that, make your way to Wat Pha Houk. This may not be the most impressive temple you will ever see, but the view is amazing. From its location on top of Phou Si Mountain, you can see all of Luang Prabang. Catching the sunset here at approximately 18:30 makes climbing all the steps to the top worth it. Entrance to both temples costs 20,000 Kip each.
Evening/Dinner
There is a night market every evening in the center of the city. The market never gets overly crowded and the vendors don’t make much of an effort to sell to you. This means you can browse freely without being hassled. The lack of customers also provides an opportunity for you to haggle and get great deals on souvenirs and other local products. The most popular food option by a considerable margin is the vegetarian buffet stalls which sell at 15,000 Kip per plate. I never saw the fascination with these two stalls. I find the food is lukewarm at best and most of the dishes are quite tasteless. As a result, I preferred to eat at one of the noodle stands. My favorite was the one at the top of the street. There you can get either Noodle Soup or the Laos version of Khao Soi for 15,000 Kip.
Day 2
Early Hours
Not the easiest of times to wake up by any stretch of the imagination, but this event is unmissable. Every morning at sunrise, typically around 05:30, many locals and a few tourists gather on the street to give alms to the monks. This is the procession where you sit or kneel on the ground offering food donations to each monk as they pass. To see this once-in-a-lifetime event is too good an opportunity to pass up. Tourists have the choice of either buying food, whether it be rice or fruit, and taking part in the ceremony, or taking a step back and simply observing the goings on. Whichever option you choose make sure to be respectful at all times. There have been instances in the past where tourists have caused disruption and offense.
Morning
After a couple more hours of sleep since the early rise, and making use of your free breakfast, I would recommend paying a visit to the Morning Market. This is a great way to see how locals shop and live. Fresh produce is available there in abundance and the market also has many great eats that you can snack on whilst you are there. Observing this part of the culture can offer great insight into the daily lives of locals.
After you are finished there, make your way to the Royal Palace and National Museum. No longer an official home of the Laos Monarchy, this museum houses many historical items and artifacts. They play a significant role in the history of the Royal Family and the Laotian people. This is a great way to familiarize yourself with the history of the country. The entrance Fee is 30,000 Kip
Lunch
Where you eat lunch now might well depend on what you eat for dinner later. A popular choice for both locals and travelers is Atsalin Restaurant. There you will find a large selection of rice and noodle dishes, fried or fresh. Most dishes are priced at 15,000 Kip. Although you will only see a steady crowd during lunch hours, later on in the evening this restaurant will be jam-packed inside with a huge line outside waiting for takeaways. I can personally recommend the Duck with Soy Sauce.
Afternoon
It has been a busy couple of days so far. With the treks to the waterfall and climbing up the hill to catch the sunset last night, add in the early start this morning and you might be feeling a little worse for wear. I reckon it might be time to relax. Utopia Bar is the best place to do this. Situated along the Nam Khan River, the bar and restaurant is zen for travelers in the city. It is a great place to unwind, maybe have a nap, or read a book whilst having an amazing view of the surrounding landscape. They will expect you to order something. The food there looked quite nice, so it is an option for lunch if you prefer. A fruit shake or a beer is enough of a purchase to be able to chill out here for a few hours.
Dinner
This all depends on the day of the week you are there. Every Tuesday and Sunday, about a thirty-minute walk from the city center, a restaurant opens called Secret Pizza. It was opened by an Italian guy who longed for pizza from home and decided to build an oven in his back garden. His friends couldn’t get enough of his pizza and their popularity among them led him to open the restaurant. Pizzas are priced at either 60,000 Kip for local ingredients or 80,000 Kip for imported ingredients. In a relaxed setting, this restaurant is a great way to unwind and be close to the city. You can have a beer and eat some amazing food. If you are not lucky enough to be there when it opens, I would suggest eating at Utopia whilst you are chilling there and then going to Atsalin for dinner.
Extra Activity
If you are able to fit it into your schedule, I would highly recommend paying a visit to L’Etranger Books and Tea. Every evening from 19:00 they play a new movie, usually, one that has been released in the past few months. It’s free to enter. However, they do ask for one purchase per person. They sell beer, food, and fruit drinks along with tea and coffee. Any of these would be enough to keep the staff happy. It never gets too busy so it is a really good way to spend an evening, especially if you are traveling by yourself and wish to switch off for a couple of hours.
Luang Prabang is by no means a cheap city. This guide gives you a way of spending 48 hours in the city, seeing the majority of what there is to see. By following the guide, you won’t spend a crazy amount of money. It also, I hope, helps you get an idea of the time it takes to do these things. As always, this guide is not there to be followed word for word. Travel is all about doing what is right for you and making your own path. You may wish to spend a lot longer in Luang Prabang like many others do, as I did. Whatever time you decide to spend there, enjoy Luang Prabang, it is a fantastic city.
Total Cost = 475,000 kip – This is still pricey for South East Asia. but for Luang Prabang, it is quite cheap, especially as you are doing and getting quite a lot for your money.
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