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Located in the Shaanxi Province, Xi’an was once the starting point of the Silk Road and is now one of China’s most important cities, in terms of culture. Because of the many sites that have huge significance for the Chinese people, tourists flock to Xi’an in their thousands. The city center is situated inside the city walls with a stunning bell tower located centrally. Most of the tourists can be found in this area and the nearby Muslim Quarter. For westerners, the city tends to be the stop-off point for visiting the Terracotta Warriors. For Chinese tourists, its significance goes a lot deeper.
However long you wish to spend there, you will in no way be short of things to do, places to see, and food to try. The downside to Xi’an being such an excellent destination is that it attracts a mass of people. When this happens prices can go up slightly, nowhere more so than in the Muslim Quarter. The smaller streets can at times be hard to move through and what could be such a special area ends up having a small sense of being overly touristy. That being said, Xi’an is a must on any visit to China, especially as it’s located only a train ride away from both Beijing and Shanghai.
Currency Converter – 10CNY = €1.30/£1.15/$1.50
Accommodation
Booking cheap accommodation is easy here. Dorm rooms start at 40CNY per night and average at 55CNY. For a private room, you will pay a bit more, but even still your night’s stay here will be more than affordable. I stayed at So Young City Center Hostel and whilst the bar was quite pricey and the Internet, was not the best, the rooms were clean and spacious and the location was good. Many of the hostels and guesthouses available are within walking distance of the Bell Tower. This should be used as your central point and a point of reference for whether or not you are staying in a good location.
I will warn though that some Chinese Guesthouses have very particular rules towards foreigners. I booked a hotel in Xi’an before arriving in China (Something which is necessary for obtaining a visa). It was not until I looked into this further, after a previous incident, that I realized you had to be a Chinese national to stay here. This apparently is quite a regular occurrence. Be careful before jumping at cheap hotels here and make sure there are reviews online from other westerners that have stayed there.
Food
Like most major cities in China, Xi’an is not short of specialty dishes. The most famous is the roujiamo, commonly known as the Chinese Hamburger. This is pork stewed in Chinese spices and stuffed into a pitta bread-like bun. They sell at 10CNY a piece and, considering how filling they can be, represent excellent value for money. In the Muslim Quarter, you are more likely to find these stuffed with either Beef or Lamb.
Another dish is Biang Biang Noodles. They are handmade noodles often described as similar to a belt in their thickness and length. My favorite bowl of these was coincidentally from the same place where we found the tastiest roujiamo. Fan Ji La Zhi serves a delicious bowl of these noodles with the aforementioned pork and a mouthwatering gravy. For 20CNY you can leave here after eating both of the above and be absolutely stuffed. Add in a large beer for 3CNY and you have a real meal on your hands.
Other common foods to find here are lamb skewers, which are cooked on the grill and dusted with spices. They are tasty, but at 10CNY in the Muslim Quarter, a bit overpriced in my opinion. Osmanthus Cake, a cheap snack at 3CNY, which in both taste and texture is quite similar to Sticky Rice. Jinggao, often eaten for breakfast, is a steamed rice cake stuffed with honey dates and black beans. Another common food you see here is Paomo. This is torn-up pieces of bread cooked in a lamb broth and served with either lamb or beef meat. Whatever your food preference is you won’t be short of options here. I highly recommend a stroll along the Muslim Quarter sampling everything that appeals to you.
Things to Do
Besides the obvious Terracotta Warriors, there is still plenty to see and do during your time here. The Bell Tower and the Drum Tower located in the center of the city close to the Muslim Quarter, an attraction in itself, are both architecturally brilliant. The Wild Goose Pagodas are worth a visit, even if they are located a little bit further afield. There are also plenty of temples and mosques dotted around the city that you can visit. If you are more interested in the natural side of the city you can visit Daming Palace National Heritage Park or Xingqinggong Park. The Shaanxi History Museum is located quite centrally if that is what you are interested in. Not forgetting the hoards of shops and shopping malls dotted through the city, Xi’an has something for everyone.
The Terracotta Warriors
Getting There
They are located over 40km outside of the city. My hostel sold the tour for 380CNY. This was considerably higher than what it cost me to do travel there by public transport. Although labeled as the ‘Tourist Bus’, the number 306 departed from Xi’an Railway Station every 15 minutes and would reach the site within an hour. One way will cost you 7CNY. When you arrive at the bus terminal, across the road from the railway station, look for the sign for the 306 bus. It will usually be accompanied by quite a long line of impatient tourists. Don’t worry though, the line moves quickly. It won’t be long until you are out of the heat and on to the air-conditioned bus.
There will be a number of people calling you to join a separate line. They will be wearing the same uniform as the official workers so it can get quite confusing. Stay in the original queue and make your way onto the white bus!!! Not the blue or green one that is going to charge you more. You will be dropped off across the road from your destination, this is the same place that you need to return to for the bus home, again don’t be fooled by the people trying to get you onto anything other than the white buses.
Food, Drink and Shopping
Before you enter the museum and after you exit you will find yourself in a shopping complex designed, of course, to take as much money from you as possible. Make sure to bring plenty of water with you. The prices there are considerably higher than those found back in the city. There are also a number of souvenir shops. Unless, of course, you are desperate to buy a certain something, it is best to avoid them. If you want to eat, I found it was best to stick to the fast food chains. McDonald’s, Subway and KFC have all set up shop here. Whilst this might not be your ideal choice, they offer better value and are priced the same as in the city. This is a lot better than overpaying for average food aimed at hungry, eager tourists, in my opinion.
The Main Event
After passing through the shops and restaurants make your way to the ticket office. The queue tends to move quite quickly. Unless you are stuck behind a tour operator buying hundreds of tickets at a time. Entrance is 150CNY for the majority of the year and 120CNY in the low season, which runs from December to February. You are sure to be approached by one of the many tour guides trying to get your business between the ticket office and the entrance gate. I don’t feel it was necessary to pay for this. Also, after seeing what goes on inside you will be glad you are not a part of one of these groups. After you go through the entrance gate, you will see a line of people waiting to take a ride to the museum and pits. In reality, though, it is a five-minute shaded walk.
When you arrive at the museum and pits, which is where you will find the Warriors, I suggest turning right and going into the building in front of you. This is the museum and a good place to start. Most of the writing is translated into English, giving you a brief lesson on the history behind the bronze sculptures and China during the time they were created.
After that, it is time to visit the 3 pits. The first building you will come to is Pit 2. Here is an L-shaped pit that houses the many different types of warriors. It is not as complete in its excavation as Pit 1 but is very interesting to see the many different types of sculptures that existed back then. After that, make your way to Pit 3. The smallest of the pits, is known as the command center for the other pits. Excavation work is, for the most part, complete here. Whilst you won’t find as many sculptures, seeing the excavation at all its different stages is a very interesting part of your visit.
Finally, pay a visit to Pit 1. Like Pit 2, excavation is in no way close to completion, but it houses the most sculptures for you to see. You are able to walk around the entirety of the pit. This allows you to get quite close and see the Warriors in full detail. Unfortunately, it is unlikely that you will get the chance to take a moment and truly take in what is in front of you. The mass amount of tours here means that it can get quite chaotic with people climbing over each other to get a picture. Classic Chinese tourism at its most charming. The fact that most here are following a tour guide, carrying one of the many many flag poles you will see, all moving in the same direction makes it very hard to navigate around them.
Don’t let the chaotic tourists put you off though. A visit here can be frustrating. Seeing masses of people lacking any sort of respect for each other and acting in a manner that defies all logic. The Terracotta Warriors are still a sight to behold. They are a little pricey. But by saying no to any sort of tour guide and by getting the public bus here, you can keep the cost at a minimum. They will be one of the big highlights of your stay in China. The fact that they are near a town that has a lot to offer like Xi’an, makes them an even more attractive destination.
If you want to read more about my time in China, including a trip to The Great Wall, click here.
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