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Siem Reap is one crazy place. It’s a city where amazingly rich culture and history meets mass over-tourism. Siem Reap is the closest city to Angkor Wat, a true wonder of the world. Its proximity to the temples has led to Siem Reap becoming one of the most popular tourist destinations in South East Asia. Year after year the numbers increase. More people, more tour groups and can the city handle it? You bet! Siem Reap is changing rapidly. Hotels and restaurants are being built on, what feels like, a daily basis. The city is expanding both upwards and outwards. This Siem Reap travel guide might even be out of date by the time I finish. But for now, here is my guide to a city that must be on your bucket list.
Currency Converter – $1 = £0.75/€0.90 — US Dollar is the currency used in Cambodia. The Cambodian Riel is used for any amount under $1. One dollar = 4,000 Cambodian Riel
Getting In
Getting to Siem Reap is easy. How you get to Siem Reap depends on where you are coming from. The city has one international airport. The second largest airport in Cambodia receives flights from neighbouring South East Asian countries, internally and most of all, from China. Unless travelling from China or coming to Cambodia for just a short time, I suggest avoiding travelling by air. It is an unnecessary expense. Instead, take the bus. If you are travelling from the east, Phnom Penh, Sihanoukville, etc then expect to pay about $10 for your trip. Cambodian buses have a great habit of overtaking every car on the road, slowing down for nothing and still arriving a few hours later than they should, so take the journey time with a pinch of salt. Night buses are also popular, just expect a bumpy ride.
From the west and most commonly Bangkok, you have three options. This journey needs a write up all on its own. With many modes of transport available and even more scams in place, proper preparation is needed. To read how to get from Bangkok to Siem Reap, click here.
Where To Stay
I would love to recommend a guesthouse that I stayed at, but unfortunately, that is not possible. Where I stayed on many occasions has since closed down. This could be the case for anywhere that is recommended in Siem Reap. Instead of focusing on a certain hostel or hotel, go for the location. Pub Street is the centre of the city, the hub of the action. Walking distance to there means walking distance to almost all restaurants and bars. Siem Reap is a compact city but its expansion means more and more guesthouses are being opened on back roads quite far out of the city. Avoid these and stick to an area that lets you walk wherever you want and need to go.
When To Go
Now!! Siem Reap is certainly not changing for the better so the sooner you go, the richer your experience will be. As far as the weather goes, Cambodia’s high season begins in November and carries on through to March. Cambodia is warm year-round with temperatures barely ever going below 20°C. The hottest months of the year tend to be March to June, temperatures can reach 40°C during this time. This is also the country’s dry season. September and October are the wettest months, but rainfall is common from June to November. Visiting in the high season is ideal for better weather but prices do tend to be slightly higher at this time.
Angkor Wat
Undoubtedly, the star of the show. Angkor Wat is probably the only reason you are even thinking of visiting Siem Reap. This temple complex was once the centre of the Khmer Empire who ruled, not only Cambodia but most of South East Asia. The empire eventually went extinct leaving behind these ruins which were discovered by a French man named Henri Mouhot in 1860. Since that time and even to this day, Angkor Wat and its surrounding temples are undergoing major reconstruction. This is a result of the government trying to restore them to their original state and to ensure the safety of the tourists who visit.
Visitors can buy a daily or multi-day pass depending on how much detail they wish to go into. There are so many temples to learn about in the complex that for some, one day is just not enough. Sunrise is also a popular time of visiting although not essential, especially considering there is no guarantee of even seeing the sun rise from behind the clouds. It can be a long day at Angkor so come prepared with suitable protection from the sun, lots of water and good walking shoes. Some of the temples require some very steep climbing. This must be taken into consideration before planning your visit.
I have visited Angkor Wat on two occasions. Once by bicycle and another with a driver. To get the most from your time there, I suggest using a driver. Every tuk-tuk driver in Siem Reap will want to bring you to Angkor Wat. The money charged is considerably higher than what they would make on an average day. A good driver can make or break your visit though. If you want a reliable and friendly guide, I cannot recommend mine enough. Clem, a former employee at a hostel I stayed at before becoming a driver, has been a friend for a long time. Clem is a breath of fresh air compared to some tuk-tuk drivers you meet in Siem Reap. I used him on my recent visit to Angkor Wat and he made the day so much better. If you wish to contact him or avail of his services then check out his Facebook page here.
More to Do in Siem Reap
Tonle Sap Lake
The largest freshwater lake in South East Asia was vital for the Khmer Empire. It has remained to this day an important part of daily life for the Khmer people. The lake and adjoining river stretch all the way to the Mekong. It is a source of fish as well as spreading water to more rural parts of the country. Without this, it would be almost impossible to grow rice and crops. Visitors can take boat tours around the lake, seeing the floating villages which still exist and learn all about life on the lake. There is also a mangrove forest but this costs extra. It is an interesting experience and is a good way to spend half a day.
Landmine Museum
Cambodia has been destroyed by the Khmer Rouge, the Vietnamese and the American Army over the past seventy-five years. Landmines caused a huge part of that destruction and continue to do so today. Thousands and thousands of Cambodians have been killed or maimed from these mines. This museum will show you the devastation the landmines have brought to locals and how, to this day, they are actively finding and de-activating mines across Cambodia. There is also a dormitory that can house up to 30 amputee victims at one time, as well as a school. This is a great way to introduce yourself to the recent history of Cambodia, especially if Siem Reap is your first stop in the country.
Go to the Circus
Phare, The Cambodian Circus was created as a way to raise money for PPSA. This is a non-profit Cambodian association improving the lives of children, young adults, and their families with art schools, educational programs, and social support. The show is designed to tell the story of Cambodia through dance, theatre and amazing circus acts. 75% of the profits raised from the daily show go to PPSA and all the performers are graduates from their programme. It is an excellent concept that really helps the disadvantaged. To read more about Phare or to book tickets, click here.
Party the Night Away on Pub Street
Pub Street is to Siem Reap as Khao San Road is to Bangkok. The hub of tourism and nightlife in the city, the street is filled with restaurants and bars catering for foreign visitors. Poor Khmer food and even worse international fare can be found here in abundance. For that reason alone I suggest eating in other parts of the city. Especially considering the restaurants on pub street charge more than the average. What you will come to pub street for is the cheap drink. $0.50 beers and cocktails on special are a regular sight. The later the night gets the louder the music goes. Bars start to spill onto the street and it becomes one big party. Very touristy of course, but Pub Street almost guarantees a good night out.
West Baray Lake
This is one of my all-time happy places. A considerably smaller lake in comparison with Tonle Sap and an almost unknown place for tourists to visit. Instead, expect to see local families and groups of friends come here to enjoy themselves. One the side of the lake, a wooden structure has been built and filled with hammocks and mats for relaxing in the Cambodian sunshine. Tubes are available for those looking to enjoy the water without any exertion. What makes it even better is, you can move down past the locals and feel like you have the place all to yourself. Workers will come along and take drink and food orders that can be delivered from nearby stalls. Some of my happiest memories from Siem Reap involve sitting there for a day, drinking beer, eating really good barbecued food and listening to music without a care in the world.
You will need to pay for a tuk-tuk to take you there. I used to go with the aforementioned Clem as well as a few people from my hostel. He would stay there with us for the day and hang out. Most drivers, however, would just ask for a pick-up time. You’re expected to pay for using the tube, hammock, etc but it is never more than a couple of dollars.
Where To Eat in Siem Reap
The Christa Restaurant and Bar
Cambodia is not known for having the best food in the world. Although it is improving, it is a long way off neighbouring Thailand and Vietnam. Between that and Siem Reap catering mainly to tourists, it is no surprise that the food is not outstanding there. However, there are a few shining lights, The Christa being one of them. An extensive menu of good Khmer food at great prices. The food is reliable and fresh. The Fish Amok there is the best I have had. I go there every second day or so when I am in Siem Reap.
Lilypop Restaurant
Lilypop is another well-priced restaurant selling good local food in the heart of Siem Reap. Expect a menu with all the Khmer classics available, including a very delicious lok-lak as well as a few western dishes for fussy eaters. They have a good choice of desserts as well. I slightly preferred The Christa but that was purely for their Amok, without that I would visit here a lot more. If you want a drink with your dinner, check out the huge selections of cocktails available at Lilypop.
The Missing Socks Laundry Cafe
The best cup of coffee in Siem Reap by some distance. As well as that, they sell the most delicious waffles topped with sweet treats like fruit and ice cream, or savoury items such as eggs and bacon. On top of that, they have a sweet yet tasty dinner menu that includes some Khmer favourites. The staff are friendly, the delicious food is cooked to order and the café is spotless. What more could you want? Maybe to do laundry at the same time? Out the front of the café, they have coin laundry machines for customers to use. A very interesting but incredibly useful concept.
Paris Bakery
You will see little hints of France throughout Siem Reap. From the expats to the bakeries, there is definitely a French influence. Nowhere is better in the city for baguettes, cheese, cakes and pastries than French Bakery. The great selection can make it so hard to choose. This is, without a doubt, my favourite breakfast or lunch spot in Siem Reap. I also love going there on days I am travelling. All the food is available for takeaway so I am never going hungry on a long journey from Siem Reap.
What To Avoid
Scams
Before my first visit to Siem Reap, a friend in Bangkok jokingly said that I was travelling to “Scambodia”. It didn’t take long for me to realise what he meant. Siem Reap has a lot of people trying to take your money. Not in an aggressive or off-putting way, but it still happens. A common one that you may see is young children, no more than 12 years of age with babies. They won’t ask for money, but instead, they ask you to go and buy baby formula in the shop conveniently located nearby. They will then return the formula once you are out of sight in exchange for a percentage if not all the price you paid. This is just one of the many ways they will try to get money from you. This is in no way a reason to avoid Siem Reap, just be careful.
Orphanages
A scam that needs to be talked about all on its own. It is very common for tour guides or drivers that you have rented to suggest you take the opportunity to visit one of the many orphanages around Siem Reap. Being a third world country with such a dark, recent history it seems likely that many children would still be suffering the effects of that today. This makes the existence of these orphanages totally plausible. After having your heart-strings pulled and you agree to go, it’ll be recommended to you that you bring some vegetables for the children and as a way of helping the orphanage. You will hugely overpay for the food, even by western standards and then you start to realise what is happening. On the face of it, it all looks legit. The children seem friendly, playful and most importantly happy.
After doing more research about this, I learned that similar to the baby formula scam, the food gets returned to the shop. The children will get visitors constantly throughout the day. None of the food brought gets eaten. They often try to give an impression of a school. Kids in uniform, etc, but with visitors coming and going all day, it is clear no education gets provided. Then there was the real bombshell. Most, if not all the children are from neighbouring Vietnam. They have been shipped in for this purpose and then are discarded off when they reach an age that makes them less in need of ‘help’. It is a horrible scam and shouldn’t be funded. Unfortunately, on my first day in Cambodia back in 2014, I visited one of these orphanages, seeing first hand how they make money out of tourists trying to do a good deed.
I am sure there are genuine orphanages in and around Siem Reap but please do diligent research before visiting any!
Drug-Dealing Tuk-Tuk Drivers
Tuk-Tuk drivers in South East Asia have a bad reputation. For the majority, it is a low-paying full-time job. Some even live in their tuk-tuks. It is no surprise that they then try to use alternative means to make extra money. Some will bring you to orphanages, etc to try to make a commission. Others sell drugs. On any given night in Siem Reap, at least one driver will try to sell you either weed or cocaine or any other drug that is popular and readily available. Cambodia is very corrupt and getting involved in any illegal activity like that is asking for trouble. Ignore or politely decline and keep walking. Even stopping for a second might bring unwanted attention.
I have spent so much time in Siem Reap over the past few years, probably way more than the city ever needed. Yet, I have always had a good time there. The city is designed for tourists to enjoy themselves. Unfortunately though, somewhere along the way, Siem Reap has lost itself. The city I first stepped into is long gone. It looks and feels so much more different now. I started to realise on my last visit there in 2018 that the memories could be what makes me love the city, not its modern-day state. Do I think people should still go and see it for the first time? Of course! Angkor Wat is too good to miss. And maybe with fresh eyes, you will love Siem Reap like I once did. Hopefully, this Siem Reap Travel Guide will help you, even if it could be well outdated inside a year!
For onward travel inspiration, check out my full Cambodia Travel Guide here!
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