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Edinburgh, and I don’t feel this is an exaggeration, is one of the most beautiful capital cities in the world. Forget the hustle and bustle that often comes hand-in-hand with a country’s capital. Instead, replace it with the most beautiful architecture, hills and monuments that you can imagine. You could be forgiven at times for thinking you have stumbled into a small, country village, with it’s tiny, picturesque streets and quiet demeanour. Despite this, Edinburgh is very much alive. There is always something happening to keep you entertained. The crowds pour in year-round hoping to experience what makes the city so popular. Filling 48 hours in Edinburgh is easy, there is certainly no shortage of things to do there. This, in my opinion, is the best way to spend your time in this beautiful city.
Accommodation
Edinburgh is not a huge city. For that reason, finding accommodation in the right area won’t be too difficult. I feel it is best to consider Edinburgh Waverley Train Station as your centre point. The station is what separates Edinburgh Old Town with the newer part of the city. Once you are within walking distance of the station, everything will be easily accessible to you. My personal recommendation comes in the form of Cairn Hotel, a really beautiful, comfortable and recently renovated hotel located in the New Town. Breakfast wasn’t included (although available for an additional fee), but everything else was perfect and represented great value for money.
Day 1
Breakfast
To ensure you get to Edinburgh Castle as early as possible, I suggest eating breakfast in your hotel, if available. Edinburgh Castle takes a long time to visit so ideally you want to start bright and early, arriving almost at opening time. I don’t often condone eating hotel breakfasts, as better food can usually be found elsewhere. But in this case, its convenience makes it the best option.
Morning
The city’s number one attraction is by far the best way to start your time in Edinburgh. Edinburgh Castle was a huge pull for me when I decided to visit Edinburgh and almost all who visit the city pay the castle a visit. It can take easily half a day to explore in its entirety. Use the audio guide to learn about the history of the castle, from Mary Queen of Scots to Robert the Bruce and much more. Every building you enter has a unique story to tell and you won’t want to miss a thing. Edinburgh Castle is sure to be the highlight of your entire visit.
Lunch
As you exit Edinburgh Castle you will find yourself at the beginning of the most famous street in Edinburgh. Finishing at the Palace of Hollyrood House, the Royal Mile is between two very significant buildings in Scottish history. The Mile is definitely worth walking in its entirety. You can walk in and out of all the little shops along the way and then stop for one of the best bites to eat Edinburgh has to offer. As you walk the Mile you will pass Oink, a small restaurant selling the most amazing hog roast rolls. For just a few pounds, you can fill up on this deliciously tender pulled pork in a fresh roll with stuffing and your choice of sauce. Oink was my first and last meal during my time in Edinburgh and I still crave it now. No trip to Edinburgh is truly complete without trying one.
Afternoon
Your walk down the Royal Mile ends at the Palace of Hollyrood Place. This is the Queen’s official Scottish residence. A visit here allows you to explore the state apartments, the chamber belonging to Mary Queen of Scots as well as the ruins of Hollyrood Abbey. The grounds are also there to be explored with a beautiful backdrop of Arthur’s Seat behind them.
A visit to Hollyrood Abbey won’t take you the whole afternoon. Fortunately, this allows you time to take a walk up Calton Hill. It is inevitable that you will spot the hill many times during your visit to Edinburgh. The monuments atop the hill make it very intriguing. Luckily, visiting is simple as Calton Hill is just a few minutes walk from the Old Town. As you climb to the top, which is surprisingly easy, you are greeted with the most fantastic view of the city. As well as the view, there is the National Monument of Scotland, the city observatory and Nelson Monument to be marvelled at. If you time your visit right, this is an amazing place to watch the sunset.
Evening
No food is more synonymous with Scotland than Haggis. It is what most visitors wish to try upon arriving. Finding it is easy, however, finding the best can be a little more difficult. After all, if you were trying something for the first time the last thing you would want is an off-putting experience in some terrible restaurant. Arcade Haggis and Whiskey House boast that they have recently celebrated ten years of having the best Haggis in Edinburgh. Once I found this out I knew that this is where I needed to try it. I wasn’t disappointed. The Haggis was fantastic. The creamy potatoes and turnips it came with accelerated the dish to even greater heights and don’t forget the whisky gravy that it all came swimming in, amazing!
If Haggis is not your thing, I do suggest avoiding this restaurant. My girlfriend ordered a different item from the menu and was not too impressed, as well as my beer being completely flat. Arcade is for those who wish to try Haggis only. An alternative is making use of the great Indian food that Edinburgh, like much of the U.K. offers. Near the mile is Mother India Cafe. At Mother India, customers order a whole host of side dishes designed to be shared amongst the group. It was quite possibly the best Indian food I have eaten out of its homeland.
Day 2
Breakfast
It is likely that the weather won’t be great during your visit to Edinburgh. Scotland as a whole is not a country renowned for sunshine and hot temperatures. When the weather is cold, I find a steaming bowl of soup to be the perfect way to warm myself up at the beginning of the day. Union of Genius provides exactly that. With an ever-changing selection of six soups and a choice of three types of fresh bread to be served on the side, there is enough to cater for any tastebuds.
Morning
Most capital cities around the world have a National Museum, but Edinburgh’s is by far my favourite. The museum, which is free to enter, is very interactive. Visitors are kept busy testing the science projects, puzzles and games made available. There is also a huge collection of stuffed animals that have been donated from all over the world. Edinburgh’s National Museum and its style is definitely better than the usual, looking at objects that are behind glass. It is very easy to spend half a day there and not get bored.
Lunch
Street food is not really a thing in Edinburgh. Again, it could well be the cold weather that plays its part in this. However, when you see a rare wooden hut with a huge crowd gathered around it, you have to go and investigate. This was the case when I stumbled upon Tupinquim. This street-food stall is within eyesight of the National Museum and when I found out what they were selling, I had to try one. They specialize in crepes, both sweet and savoury. My personal choice, a crepe filled with spicy Peri-Peri chicken, avocado, peppers, onion and cheese. Although the popularity of such a small kitchen meant I had a few minutes wait, it was worth every second. I couldn’t get enough. Each bite was as delicious as the last and I never wanted it to end. If I lived in Edinburgh I would visit Tupinquim at least a couple of times a week.
Afternoon
I was surprised by just how many walking tours happen every day throughout Edinburgh. Although, it might be that nearly all leave from the Royal Mile and therefore are quite obvious as you walk down the street. However, this is a great opportunity for visitors in Edinburgh to see more of the city, without spending too much money. For Harry Potter fans, The Potter Trail is the tour you want to take. JK Rowling began writing the Harry Potter series in Edinburgh and took a lot of inspiration from the city. For people who wish to discover the darker side of Edinburgh, walking tours are on offer to discover what really happened down the many dark alleys that the city has. Taking part in one or two of these tours is a fantastic way to see more of the city and learn something of interest along the way.
To read more about The Potter Trail, click here.
Evening
As your weekend in Edinburgh comes to a close, what better way to end your time there than eating delicious, homey food in the cosiest of settings. To do that, go for dinner at the Halfway House. Edinburgh’s smallest pub has just four tables, but should you be lucky enough to get yourself a seat you will be treated to some very hearty, Scottish fare. Halfway House is a memorable way to bring your time in Edinburgh to its conclusion, enjoying a local brew and eating some tasty, local food.
You better hope that when the time comes to leave Edinburgh that you have something pretty special lined up in the immediate future. If not, you could very well find yourself looking for any reason you can that allows you to stay. Edinburgh takes hold of you very quickly. Even if you are only there for a few days or a weekend, there is no doubting that you will love every minute of the time you spend there. Spending 48 hours in Edinburgh is, without doubt, one of the best weekend getaways you can have in all of Europe.
To read more about Edinburgh, including the best food the city has on offer, click here.
I did this drive about 25 years ago on a school excursion but am going again soon. So thank you for the inspiration!