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When you think of Munich, often your mind turns to Oktoberfest and thousands of people, all drinking huge steins of locally-brewed beer until they can no longer drink or stand. Yet, for the vast majority of the year, Munich is not like that. Of course, beer is still consumed on a regular basis by locals and tourists alike, but the city goes far deeper than that. You can immerse yourself in the history of the city, wonder at the architecture, find tranquillity in the urban parks and chill in the much-less-crowded beer gardens. The city is ranked as the third most livable city in the world and, should you get the chance to spend 48 hours in Munich, you will quickly realise why. This sample itinerary will show you how to get the most from your time there.
Accommodation
Despite having quite an extensive public transport system, it is possible to minimize how often you need to use Munich’s underground. Staying within close proximity to Marienplatz, the city’s centre square is vital to doing so. Even though some attractions will still remain out of walking distance, it will certainly limit how often you will need to use public transport. Munich is quite a beautiful city to walk around. Taking the underground for every journey means missing so much of the city.
Unfortunately, I cannot recommend a hotel or hostel. I stayed at the Meininger Hotel Center, near Hauptbahnhof. It was a longer walk than I expected to reach what could be considered the city centre. As well as this, the hostel had many flaws. These included; no personal sockets in the dorm room, a bar that never opened and charging €4 for a bottle of water. I would not recommend it. There are almost certainly better places to stay in Munich in regards to both location and facilities.
Day 1
Breakfast
The perfect way to begin your time in Munich is to head to Viktualienmarkt. This farmers market in the heart of the city is a great place to soak up the atmosphere and begin to feel comfortable in the city. Here you can get some breakfast, some fresh fruit or even grab a beer, something which seemed entirely acceptable for breakfast. My recommendation comes in the form of Kleiner Ochs’nbratr and, more specifically, their Weisswurst. This is a breakfast/brunch sausage made from pork and veal. It is sold with a pretzel and a sweet mustard sauce. This Bavarian speciality was one of my favourite things to eat in Munich and a delicious way to start your culinary experience in the city.
Morning
As you start your sightseeing in Munich, make your way from the market to Marienplatz, the main square in the city. Marvel at the New City Hall with its 300-foot long, elaborately decorated front. It dominates your eye-line with its statues and arches. From there take a walk to Frauenkirche, a church that is considered a landmark of the Bavarian capital city. Finish your morning by visiting Munich Residenz. This is the former royal palace of the Wittelsbach Monarchs of Bavaria. It is also the largest city palace in Germany. Admission costs €11 for a combined ticket for both the residence museum and treasury.
Lunch
Within walking distance of the Munich Residenz is the hugely popular restaurant, Steinheil 16. Serving very good quality food from their menu of typical German favourites, all in a small restaurant with a local feel to it. Their menu is not huge but everything that came out of the kitchen looked delicious, including the huge schnitzel that I had. What proved their quality was that every plate which went back to the kitchen looked like it had been licked clean. It felt like the sort of place locals visit on a very regular basis.
Afternoon
No trip to Munich is complete without visiting at least one of the amazing urban parks the city has to offer. The largest and most impressive by some distance is the English Garden. Spread across 900-acres, the garden has so much for visitors to see. There is a Japanese Tea Room, a Chinese Tower and even the second largest beerhall in Munich. The English Garden can keep visitors occupied for hours, especially if the sun is out. Relaxing on the grass, visiting the monuments and grabbing yourself a beer is a fool-proof plan to ensure the gardens make you fall in love with Munich just a little bit more.
Dinner
The chance to dine in a Munich beer garden is one of the many reasons the culinary scene there is so special. A meal is instantly made better when you can eat with the sun shining down and a cold beer to take the edge off. One of the best restaurants to experience this is Wirsthaus Zum Straubinger. With a typical menu of German classics and an excellent beer garden, this restaurant makes for a great dining experience. It might not be the most budget-friendly restaurant in Munich but with most dishes coming in at under €18, it is not out-of-reach for most visitors. It seemed like a common meeting place for colleagues getting food after work and friends meeting up as big groups of locals were the norm. All testament to how good the food is.
Day 2
Breakfast
It seems like every country, region or city throughout Europe has its own pastry or sweet treat. In Bavaria, this is the schmalznudel. A delicious, freshly deep-fried dough, crispy on the outside, fluffy on the inside and topped with as much sugar as you desire. Whilst it may not be the healthiest way to start your day, I can think of few better. Ask any self-respecting local where to find the best schmalznudel in Munich and they will point you in the direction of Café Frischhut. A charming little bakery that produced the most amazing, fried schmalznudels that you could imagine. Pull up a seat outside and enjoy one or even two of these sweet treats with a cup of coffee. A great way to begin day two in Munich.
Café Frischhut is closed every Sunday. Should you be travelling to Munich for the weekend, I suggest eating here on your first morning and eating in the market on day two. Café Frischhut is just across the road from Viktualienmarkt so your itinerary does not need to be altered any more than this.
Morning
When your time is limited, it can be unideal to take a day trip from the city you are visiting. It is hard enough to squeeze everything in without choosing to spend time away from your destination. Although I agree with this completely, Dachau Concentration Camp is the exception. Reaching the town of Dachau from Munich takes about twenty-five minutes. Add in the time you spend there (approx 3 hours) and it is easily doable in half a day. Dachau was the first Nazi concentration camp, opening its gates in 1933. The purpose of Dachau was to enforce labour and imprison Jews as well as prisoners from Germany, Austria and other nations that Germany occupied or invaded. Although it was a tough place to visit, Dachau Concentration Camp was the highlight of my trip to Munich.
To reach Dachau, take the S2 train from Hauptbahnhof. Once you disembark, take bus number 726 from outside the station. This will leave you at the entrance to the camp. If you are unsure, just follow the crowds. Any tourist you see will be visiting Dachau for this reason.
Lunch
Ringlers may only have a small selection of sandwiches to choose from, but there is no denying the quality of each product they produce. 4 options, including one vegetarian sandwich, priced between €5 and €6, all packed into a freshly baked bun. Personally, I went with what was called The Bavarian, pork belly (always pork!), spicy coleslaw and chilli mayonnaise. Even though a meal this heavy might have been suited to lunchtime rather than nine in the morning, I really enjoyed it. The crispy pork belly and the crunchy coleslaw were divine, the spice level was perfect and not too overpowering. It was not hard to see why Ringlers have a reputation as one of, if not the best sandwiches in Munich.
Munich’s public transport system is very inter-connecting. Sendlinger Tor, the station closest to Ringler’s is just a couple of stops from Hauptbahnhof, all of Munich’s underground and suburban lines pass through here. This makes it the ideal choice for grabbing a quick bite in the city after a morning in Dachau.
Afternoon
It might seem slightly inconvenient taking public transport for the second time today, but unfortunately, to visit the major sights Munich offers, it is necessary. Nymphenburg Palace, one of Europe’s largest palaces, was the summer residence of the former rulers of Bavaria. The palace features an incredible banquet hall as well as being surrounded by an extensive, beautiful garden. During the summer months, you can buy a combined entrance ticket for €11.50. This includes entrance into the palace, the Marstallmusuem (Museum of Carriages and Slays) and the four park palaces. During the winter months, the park palaces are closed and tickets cost €6.
To reach the palace, take the U-Bahn (underground) to Rotkreuzplatz, then the tram to Schloss Nymphenburg. Alternatively, take the S-Bahn (suburban railway) to Laim, then the bus to Schloss Nymphenburg. If you bought an all-day public transport ticket when visiting Dachau, this will include your journey to and from the palace.
Dinner
If there is one place to you must have your last meal in Munich, then Andy’s Krablergarten is that place. Although they have an extensive selection of German and Bavarian dishes, their Schnitzel is where it is at. They have a huge list of different flavours, each has a different topping or a different marinade under the breading. I ordered their special spicy schnitzel, advertised as what they are known for. It was insanely good. Great food coupled with enjoying a beer in their garden makes for a great and very affordable dinner.
After Dinner
No visit to Munich is complete without having a beer in either a bierhaus or biergarten. The Hofbrauhaus is the city’s most famous and in turn, most popular. Augustiner Braustuben is slightly off the beaten track yet retains a great atmosphere. Hirschgarten is the largest beer garden in the world, with seating for a whopping 8,000 guests. Max E is the backpacker’s recommendation. Its close proximity to the university makes it popular amongst students. Everywhere you look in Munich there is an amazing place to grab a beer. Their beer culture could very well top anywhere else in the world.
To fully experience Munich and to get the most from your time there, you must sample the best of what the city offers. Munich has a little bit of everything. Incredible history, amazing green areas, a beer and culinary scene like few others and beautiful architecture that few can rival. Life seems easier and less stressful when you are there. Each moment spent there often gifts you another reason to love the city. A weekend in Munich is most certainly long enough to form a connection with the city and make you wish you could stay a little longer. The title of the third most livable city in the world is well deserved.
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