Cambodia – A Country on The Rise
Between 1975 and 1979, under the rule of Pol Pot, Cambodia fell victim to atrocities that people looking in from the outside can’t even begin to imagine. It is estimated that up to 3 million people were murdered by the Khmer Rouge. People living there now were either witness to this genocide or have parents and grandparents who were subject to this unthinkable ordeal. All of this is a testament to how this fabulous country has recovered. Cambodia is still trying to find its way but the people are friendly and you will never forget the sights you see. This Cambodia Travel Guide will hopefully help you with your visit to this amazing, strong country.
Currency Converter – $1 = £0.75/€0.90 — US Dollar is the currency used in Cambodia. The Cambodian Riel is used for any amount under $1. One dollar = 4,000 Cambodian Riel
Weather
Cambodia’s high season begins in November and carries on through to March. Cambodia is warm year-round with temperatures barely ever going below 20°C. The hottest months of the year tend to be March to June, temperatures tend to reach 40°C during this time. This is also the country’s dry season. September and October are the wettest months but rainfall is common from June to November. Visiting in the high season is ideal for better ??? but prices do tend to be slightly higher at this time.
Visa Policy
A visa on arrival is required for most visitors to Cambodia. Only passport holders from Brunei, Indonesia, Laos, Malaysia, Philippines, Seychelles, Singapore, Thailand and Vietnam do not require a visa. The visa costs $30 and you must pay in cash. I can’t speak for airports as I have always travelled in and out of Cambodia by land, but make sure you have the exact change. Prices can vary, depending on who is working. Refuse to give any more than the official visa fee. You might have to wait a bit longer but you will get your visa.
Things to See and Do in Cambodia
Angkor Wat
Located just outside Siem Reap is the ancient city that was once home to the Khmer Empire. While it is the most visited tourist site in Cambodia, the crowds do not stop it from being everything you imagine it to be. The complex of temples is enormous. The main temple is Angkor Wat which is surrounded by popular temples such as Bayon, Ta Prohm, Ta Som, Banteay Srei and many many others. When visiting, arrive before dawn and watch the sun rise from behind the temples. It is spectacular. Sunset is also popular but is nowhere near as beautiful a spectacle. The most popular way to get to Angkor Wat is by tuk-tuk. For around $10 – $15 per day, hotels and hostels will usually provide a tuk-tuk and driver. An entrance ticket is by no means cheap, at $37, but Angkor Wat deserves to be splashed out on.
Tip – If you buy a ticket at sunset, then the same ticket is valid for the whole following day as well.
Siem Reap
20 mins from Angkor Wat is Siem Reap. Tourists visiting the temples have caused the city to develop at an almost unsustainable rate. I visited for the first time in 2014 and when I returned 14 months later, it was like visiting a whole new city. The buildings were bigger and newer, more hotels had been built and prices had rocketed. That being said, it is still a lot of fun. Pub Street can be a bit over the top but it is a good night out. Tonle Sap Lake is a great place to spend a few hours and tours start from $3.
My favourite place though is West Baray Lake, which is hardly visited by tourists. There are hammocks to chill out in and you can relax on the lake in a tube. Food stalls nearby will come to take orders and deliver to you. There is no better way to spend a day in Siem Reap. The city is still developing. I returned again in 2018 and felt like I was visiting for the first time. Most people like Siem Reap though, myself included. A few days here is a must during your visit to Cambodia.
To read my full Siem Reap Travel Guide, click here.
Battambang
3 hours from Siem Reap is the small town of Battambang. Famous for its bamboo train and the bat caves where you can see the bats emerge at sunset in their millions. Battambang is charming and quiet. After spending a couple of days there, you will see why so many expats have decided to live there permanently.
Kampot
Famous for its Kampot Pepper, Kampot is a small town in between the capital Phnom Penh and the beaches of Sihanoukville. Aside from a couple of very lively hostels, Kampot is quiet, extremely relaxing and is home to some very good food. What I liked about Kampot is you can switch off easily. Stay a few days here, slow down and recharge your batteries. You will be all the more thankful for it.
Phnom Penh
Phnom Penh is unlike any capital city I have visited. The roads are dusty, it has lawlessness about it and even though the area of the city is vast, it doesn’t have that big city vibe. I don’t dislike Phnom Penh, but I don’t get much enjoyment from being there. There are must-see attractions though. The Choeung Ek Killing Fields, just outside the city, is surreal. The site is home to mass graves, and with bones and clothing still being uncovered, you leave there with unforgettable images of what you witnessed. On a similar note, S-21 in the city centre is a former school converted into a prison and torture chamber for the Khmer Rouge. 14,000 people entered under Pol Pot’s rule and only 7 survived. It is a heartbreaking place. Phnom Penh is worth visiting for these two sites alone.
Sihanoukville
Located on the South Coast of the country is Sihanoukville, the main beachside town in the whole of Cambodia. Packed with tourists for most of the year, it has a seediness and dirtiness that I couldn’t wrap my head around. Stories you hear from locals or expats here don’t do much for its reputation either. Instead, make your way from the epicentre, that is Serendipity Beach, and spend your time at Otres Beach. It’s slightly further out, but the beach and area are considerably quieter and more beautiful.
What To Eat in Cambodia
Lok Lak
I would say this is the most reliable meal you can get in Cambodia. Lok Lak is beef sauteed with cucumber, tomatoes, onion and soy sauce. The soy sauce, oil and meat fats create an almost gravy-like texture to the sauce. It is then sold with rice and a fried egg. There is some debate over whether this is a Cambodian or a Vietnamese dish but you will find it in almost every restaurant across the country.
Amok
A favourite of mine, Amok is curry steam cooked in banana leaves. Usually consists of fish and then served with rice, Amok is creamy in flavour. The curry also tends to be mild. It is a very traditional dish in Cambodia and can be found at most restaurants. Fish is the most popular choice but chicken is also common.
Nom Banh Chok
This popular breakfast is primarily made with rice noodles. The noodles are topped with a thick fish broth and a huge helping of green vegetables and beansprouts. You will find this all over the cities in the early morning being sold to locals for breakfast.
Pork and Rice
Grilled pork and rice are sold on almost every street corner. You will constantly see locals tucking into a plate, especially for breakfast. It is simple and tastes exactly like you would expect, fatty pork that’s heavily grilled and served with a portion of rice. It is cheap, tasty and filling.
Frog
Despite the French influence in Cambodia and the fact that frog legs are eaten as a delicacy in France, the origin behind them in Cambodia is quite different. They were eaten by the poor as a way of surviving in the past. Things have changed these days in Cambodia but frogs are still a regular snack. You can find them stuffed, typically with pork but you are more likely to find them grilled whole and eaten. It is definitely a case of don’t knock it until you have tried it as they taste surprisingly good.
Helpful Phrases
Hello = Susadei (Pronounced Soos-a-day)
Goodbye = Lee Hi
Yes (Male)= Bah
Yes (Female)= Jah (Pronounced Chaa)
No = Ot teh (Ot-tei)
Thank you = Arkun (Pronounced Ar-koon)
Sorry = Som Dtoh (Pronounced Sam-toe)
Stop = Chop
Please = Som
How much? = Bo Man (Pronounced Bow-man)
Typical Costs in Cambodia
Accommodation
Hostels in Cambodia start at $. This will get you a more than a decent hostel. $15 will certainly get you a private room in these hostels. For a budget hotel room or guesthouse, you will pay closer to $20. There are a lot of very poor accommodation options in Cambodia, especially Phnom Penh, so be careful to check reviews before booking.
Food
You can find good food in Cambodia for less than $2. You might have to look a bit further for it than in other countries. In cities like Siem Reap, western restaurants are the norm. You can expect to pay an average of $5 for a meal there. Try to find the local food, apart from some rare exceptions the western food here is just ok. Local food is cheaper and much better quality.
Transport
To get from city to city in Cambodia you will have to take the bus. Prices don’t go over $12, that is for the Siem Reap to Phnom Penh route. A lot of others cost less than $10. Siem Reap to Battambang, for example, shouldn’t cost more than $5.
Activities
This is where you will probably spend a large part of your budget. $37 into Angkor Wat and $6 into Choueng Ek Killing Fields. Then you have to add in the price to get to these places. Travelling solo could make Angkor Wat a $50 day. Unfortunately, to see these attractions, it is very hard to lower this expenditure.
How to Save Money in Cambodia
Avoid Western Food
I felt that Western Food was more readily available in Cambodia than anywhere else I have visited in Asia. Pub Street, in Siem Reap, has restaurants full of it and many hostels have restaurants that serve primarily Western food. It should be avoided though, it’s not that it is not tasty, but it does come at a price. Western dishes can cost 3 or 4 times as much as the local food. So stick to the local eats for a tastier and certainly more cost-effective experience. Also, on a more personal note, if you go somewhere and don’t at least try some of the local food, you are missing a huge slice of what travelling is all about.
Groups
For day trips like Angkor Wat or the Killing Fields, you will have a much more enriching experience if you go as a group, as opposed to going solo. Personally, I found it much too difficult to share these surreal and emotional sights of Cambodia with people who had never been. With regards to a budget, the tuk-tuk prices are for the tuk-tuk and driver. So whether travelling alone or as a group of 4, the price doesn’t change.
Cycle
You can rent bikes for as little as $1 a day. This makes them a great way to explore the cities and towns while saving you money on transport. Of course, if you are just strolling around the centre they are not needed, but if you want to go further afield then cycling is your best option.
Keep the Drinking Down
While it only sets you back $0.50 a beer in the majority of Cambodia, the small prices add up. For a country as budget friendly as Cambodia, it can seem like a waste of money to double what you spend on just alcohol alone. I am not saying you can’t enjoy a drink, but just keep it under tabs. Your liver and your wallet will thank you for it.
Cambodia has such a dark past but the opportunity for such a prosperous future. Unfortunately, the country may never reach its full potential if the greed among government officials doesn’t subside. The land is being sold off to foreign investors at an alarming rate. If they are not careful the future of Cambodia and the Khmer people could be seriously disadvantaged by this. This doesn’t stop Cambodia from being one of the most memorable countries you could ever wish to visit. Not as developed their neighbours to the east or west but Cambodia has so much to love. I have seen a lot of the country over the past few years and I don’t think I will return for a fourth time in the near future. One day though, I will go back and see what has become of a country that I hold so many dear memories from.
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