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This week brings me to the halfway point of my trip. 4 months away from anything that seems remotely familiar can be challenging at times. Whilst this is not the first time I have travelled for this length of time, it does not stop the road from being tough in places. It is, however, the only time that has included such a long period in a country that I disliked. In fact, the only country I have visited that I was not a fan of. The 7 weeks in China that were made up of two stints sandwiching an amazing week in Hong Kong were tough. The country wore me out mentally and, at times, physically. There were days that I left my hostel only to want to return for the day ten minutes later. I had to fight the urge to do so.
Spending days regularly feeling like this made me yearn for something familiar, a little slice of home. It made me question whether or not taking this trip was the right idea in the first place. Of course, I quickly come to my senses. Remembering the amazing times I had before China and my time in Hong Kong. Nonetheless, I was in need of a pick me up and quick. Finally, it was time to fly from Shanghai, after what felt like an age in the Far East. My destination, The Philippines and more precisely, Manila.
It was maybe a tad unfair tasking Manila with the job of giving me my zest for travel back. I knew that, after all the excitement leading up to this flight, if I didn’t like it here then I would have been feeling a lot more down than I had been a few days previous. I didn’t know much about the city and to be honest I still don’t, despite my 5 days here. What I can tell you is it is massive. Poverty is rife and it has quite an edginess about it that at times made me very aware of my surroundings and what could possibly go wrong at any moment. Although I didn’t have a bad experience where my safety was concerned, you really have to have your wits about you.
Groups of children begging, almost following you down the street, is common. As is street corners full of homeless men, women and children. The streets are dirty, the air quality not the best, but still, I enjoyed myself there. Despite the city’s many obvious flaws, it had a bit of charm about it. Maybe it was the fact that, above all else, it was not China. It is quite possible that at that moment in time I could have travelled to any country and to any city in the world and the relief of being there was enough to make me feel positive.
It didn’t take long for me to feel happy about being in Manila. After my overnight flight, I checked into my hostel, took a long and much-needed nap and went out feeling refreshed. I walked down to the waterfront where I was joined by a large number of locals going about their evening. Vendors selling drinks, ice creams and peanuts pushed their carts along the sidewalk playing music from their speakers. Couples and families laughed and sang as they enjoyed their Sunday evening. As always with promenades, cyclists and joggers used the amazing view to perk up their exercises.
I felt at ease being able to sit on a bench and watch as the sun set behind the beautiful clouds over the water. It was so nice not having eyes on me at all times. A moment that was very rare during the weeks spent in China. The occasional child begging was not enough to spoil this moment of peace. What came next was a sure-fire reminder that I was back in South East Asia and things are only going to improve from here. It was after dark and I was feeling hungry.
I found myself a small restaurant on the side of the road. Once visited by one of my heroes, the late Anthony Bourdain. I put in my order, grabbed a small plastic stool next to an empty table and waited for my food. What followed was a pure moment of happiness. Part of my food arrived, Grilled Pork Belly with a side sauce made from Onions, Chillies and Vinegar, that gives the meat an amazing Spicy and Bitter flavour. Eating this type of food with a cold beer, even if it is on the roadside, is that moment of familiarity that I had been craving. Now I am back in South East Asia and now my spirits are truly lifted.
The next few days in Manila were good. Although there is not a lot to see or do here, it is cheap and good food can be found everywhere. I was able to relax, watch some Netflix (which was banned in China) and get ready for the overnight boat trip to Coron that was forthcoming. There is a chance I will never return to Manila. I don’t feel that it is a city that will pull me back the same way a city like Bangkok would, but for these few days, it was exactly what I needed. All I wanted was to begin the journey of making China nothing but a memory. For now, though, it is time to go to Coron and hit the beach, hopefully with a cocktail in hand. After a few days of this, I am a hundred per cent sure that the road will feel just like home again.
To read more about my time in Manila and the Philippines, click here.
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