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I had no idea what to expect when my plane touched down in the early hours of the morning in Manila. I arrived knowing practically nothing about The Philippines, and left three weeks later, still knowing very little. How can you truly explore a country that’s made up of 7,000 islands in such a short period? I can make assumptions based on my experiences, but that doesn’t mean I am correct. I did find certain similarities though in all of the places I visited, the majority were positive so I hope they stand across the entire country.
The first and easiest observation I made was on the drive from the airport. I wasn’t in Shanghai anymore. Trash littered the streets, buildings were run down and derelict, this was a different world from the one I left just a few hours before. I was excited though, China had been a difficult experience. I needed this change and this very different culture. Manila as a city had very little to like about it. I struggle to think of a lot of positives when talking about it. That being said, I enjoyed my time there. It was such a drastic change from China which made me so happy to be there. I easily blocked out the negatives and made good use of the cheap, tasty food on offer and took in the craziness going on around me. I left Manila with no intention of ever returning. There was nothing about the city to pull me back, yet I am very thankful for the time I spent there.
One drunken, overnight ferry later and I was in Coron. When I think of islands in South East Asia, my mind always goes straight to Thailand and I was expecting something along those lines. I was very wrong. Being the low season, it was very quiet. I got the sense that, even during the busy times of the year, this place still feels the same. The development has in no way kept up with the increase in popularity among visitors here. It wasn’t an island overrun by tourists, nor has it been developed to a point beyond return, losing what was so special about it in the first place. Yes, there are a couple of bars and cafés but it is still very much just a dirt road going through the centre of a village. The island gave off more of an impression of locals going about their lives than those in Thailand, which are usually crammed with drunken tourists. The highlight of my time in Coron was certainly the boat tour around the area, getting to see incredible sights like the Green Lagoon and Kayangan Lake. As a complete non-swimmer, it was a bit out of my comfort zone and something I would tend to avoid doing. But I have to say, in the end, it was totally worth it.
Next, it was time to break away in El Nido and take to the hills in a bid to leave civilisation behind, if only for a few days. One hour away from El Nido, near a small village called Sibaltan, I found the tranquillity I was looking for. I recharged my batteries and moved on to Puerto Princesa, ready for anything that the road had in store. Puerto Princesa is, in a way, a cross between Manila and Coron. A city that hasn’t quite got that city feel and unfortunately, there’s not a lot about it. It wasn’t a bad place, but I felt it lacked something. There were some amazing things to see on tours from there, but unfortunately, I didn’t have the weather for that. If I had my time in the country again, I would certainly take a few days off Puerto Princesa and spend them in El Nido instead. The town looked quite lively and it would have been good to stay at least a couple of nights there. I’m not someone who usually regrets things I did or did not do, but I definitely regret not doing this.
I was taken aback by the quality of food I found across the country. Researching the food before I arrived, I got a sense that I shouldn’t expect too much. That wasn’t the case though. The Filipinos love their grilled meats and fish, as well as staple dishes like Adobo and Afritata that could be found everywhere. Almost everything I ate was really tasty. They love their garlic and their vinegar and so much of the food there tasted like it was what they would have eaten at home. There was certainly no danger of going hungry there. Manila was the highlight for food, as capital cities usually are, but good local food could be found all over the islands too. This was a welcomed surprise. The locals hadn’t adapted to cater to what they think the tourists want, something which happens way too often on other Asian islands. Instead, they stuck to the dishes that the country is known for. They also have a deep love for spaghetti and tomato sauce. I always thought this was strange, but when most other dishes were rice based, its availability gave me a good chance to mix it up.
The highlight of my entire stay in The Philippines was, without a shadow of a doubt, the people. I had no idea that when I arrived in Manila, I was arriving in a country full of warm and friendly people with a sense of humour like few others. It was such a change coming from China, a nation of people who had so much and would do anything possible to get just a bit more, not concerned with how it affected anyone else. This made The Philippines and in particular the Filipinos, a breath of fresh air. A country of people with seemingly so little but who also want for nothing. They are always smiling, laughing and singing (they all love to sing!!!). Like Manila, I think the entire country came at the right time for me. It was a very mixed experience, from city to island life to some secluded days in the middle of nowhere. Every place seemed so different from the last and I only wish I’d had more time there. It is, of course, not a perfect country. Even if they don’t ask for it, the government could do so much more for the people. Thousands of people from the Philippines shouldn’t have to emigrate in search of work, just to provide for their families. The streets shouldn’t be filled with shoeless children begging and stray dogs. Unfortunately, though, that’s the way it is and it doesn’t look like it’s going to change anytime soon. It is a shame because if any nation deserves more, it is the Filipinos.
For any traveller, Manila can be slightly intimidating and getting from place to place was difficult, but don’t let that put you off. The Philippines is a great budget destination on any backpacking trip. The food is cheap, the people incredible and you are sure to, like me, leave the country wanting more. I truly hope to return one day and explore more of the islands, especially the ones that are even more untouched. The country’s hospitality will live long in my memory and will always pull me back!
To read more about the Philippines, click here.
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